Saturday, 28 March 2020

Brazil - the inside scoop - Part I

Accidents will happen

Isn't it remarkable the things you discover by accident?  I'd said in a previous blog about Monaco that
Texas passes for the USA GP 2013
my entire life changed in 2003 by accidentally turning right instead of left, and another accident that's had a profound impact on my life was going to Brazil - by accident.  It rather took me by surprise to note that my 1st time in Brazil was only 7-years ago at the 2013 Brazilian Grand Prix.  I have been so often now that it feels much longer ago I had initially traveled there.  The 2013 season had a back-to-back final two races, Austin on November 17th and Interlagos on November 24th, so as I was in "The Americas" and given one of my stated ambitions is to tick off all of the F1 events on the calendar (almost there now) and given I had guests in Austin it all seemed to make perfect sense to go to Interlagos and "tick it off".

I'd actually had rather a nice time in Texas, I arrived early and went to NASA in Houston (nerd), San Antonio to visit the Alamo and Riverwalk and ended in Austin for the GP.  The race weekend was a lot of fun with the guests we had there and when the F1 was all over I was to fly from Austin to Miami to Rio de Janeiro.  From memory it was with United Airlines and was a particularly uncomfortable 10-hour-overnight job to Brazil, but anyway, Tuesday the 19th of November I would land at early-o-clock into Rio de Janeiro.

Rio de Janeiro 

I was probably slightly more familiar with Brazil than non-F1 fans, since I've been watching F1 has always featured both a Brazilian Grand Prix (initially in Jacerapagua now Interlagos) and loads of Brazilian drivers, some of whom aren't too shabby.  Emerson Fittipaldi (2 time champ), Nelson Piquet (3 time champ) and of course, the legendary Ayrton Senna da Silva.  I'd watched all of them, didn't care much for Piquet as he was a douchebag to Nigel but had a soft spot for Ayrton even though he was Mansell's main opposition.  I recall, quite vividly actually when he complained to FISA about pole being on the wrong side and that if they didn't change it he's simply not brake - then he did it.  I remember watching that at early-o-clock and being absolutely gobsmacked when he did exactly what he said he would do, and the confusion as to whether he would be allowed to keep the title or not.  Much like Schumacher who'd come onto the scene a few years later, cut from the same cloth of win-at-all-costs, and whilst I didn't and don't condone some of their actions, I understood that in the heat-of-battle errors in judgement were made.  Anyway, back to Brazil, I know slightly more about the place because of my F1 nerdibility, that being said and I have tried many times to quantify in my own mind the reasons, but Copacabana and Rio de Janeiro seemed....seemed to me like somewhere I'd never go it was somewhere 'out-of-reach'.  Maybe because of Ronnie Biggs, I can remember seeing Copacabana used on news footage whenever his
Ronnie in Rio 
name was mentioned and Rio seemed somewhere that I wouldn't ever visit.  Whilst I've been on longer flights and been to far less tourist-centric countries, there was a real incredulousness about my being in Brazil and there is still a part of me thinks like that.  It might be the same part that wonders aloud and often how on earth I ended up running my own F1 travel company, but nonetheless, being in Rio was really quite exciting to me.  I had, sadly, bought into the 'danger' hype that surrounds Brazil and in my mind I was expecting the place to be a cross between a Dundee housing estate in the 80's and the Wild West....(some might say those are one and the same).  You know, full of bandits and criminals just waiting for an unsuspecting gringo to cross their path so they can mug/rape/murder/kidnap/all of the above you.  What I have come to find during my dozens of visits is that Rio is very much like my own wee city, there are places it is wise not to venture late at night and there are other areas which are fine, I've found this to be the case no matter where I've been in the world, yet somehow Rio, very unfairly, has this rep about being a no-go-zone.


Her name was Lola.....

Avenue Atlantica and Copacabana from the rooftop of hotel
Anyhoos, I'd now landed in Rio, collected my case and jumped in a taxi to my hotel which was to be on Copacabana beach, namely The Miramar.  The cab ride from GIG airport to the beachfront is interesting, Favela's line the motorway and there is very little by way of 'sights' from the back seat of a yellow cab charging lane-to-lane on the highway route.  However, give it 45 minutes or so until you arrive to Copacabana via the crazy roads and tunnels and you are greeted with the most spectacular jaw-dropping natural beauty you'll see in any country.  Avenue Atlantica is the main road that runs parallel with Copacabana beach and when the taxi driver turned onto this road, and again I cannot really quantify this, but it seemed quite familiar.  The arc of the white sandy beach and the bluest of blue Atlantic Ocean lapping and an eclectic mix of buildings, some almost art-deco and some truly hideous late 60's slabs of grey concrete.  But the beach is just beautiful, nothing really I can liken it to because, somewhat ironically, I hate the beach.  All that bloody sand gets everywhere, like who wants to wake up in the morning with sand in their nether regions and all over the bed?  I am also not really one for lying about in the sun....so maybe going to a place iconic for beaches was a mistake?

So, I get to the hotel and am checked in promptly even though it is early in the morning.  Went for a
One of my favourite places in the world 
wee disco-nap, unpacked then headed to the pool on floor 16 of the hotel.  The rooftop of The Miramar is a spectacular little haven with an infinity pool, restaurant, bar and loungers.  Again, I'm not a particular sun-worshiper (hence my perma-peely-wally-skin-tone) but found myself at ease on the lounger of the hotel. I had taken a couple of books, my noise-cancelling headphones (normally reserved for screeching bairns on planes) and as usual in spite of me having more factor 30 than Superdrug, I'd forgotten my sun tan lotion.  I left my stuff on the lounger, went to get some factor 30 at the pharmacy on the corner and then back to this little haven of Rio.  I instantly felt comfortable, again I'm not normally one for sitting about in the sun, but I think a combination of "man, I am in Rio!", and "what am I doing in Rio?" and "Wow, this is RIO" was all dawning on me, but few places I have been to felt so instantly "right" as this did.  You know when you travel there are places that grow on you, places you don't care much for and once-in-a-while there are places that just jump out at you?  I've had the 'jump-out' thing in Sydney on my 1st visit, New York on my 1st visit, of course I had it on my 1st
visit to Monaco.  For me, Rio de Janeiro fell into this category of somewhere I had been excited to go to, did not disappoint from 1st impressions and felt right from day 1.  It is an an almost child-on-Christmas-day-excitement combined with a curious feeling of wellness and complete familiarity, don't know, maybe it is just me who gets this but having traveled rather a bit, the four places I've specified are the only 4 I got this feeling for, and Singapore too which didn't instantly hit me like this but grew on me with each visit.  All of the aforementioned places I've been I had seen on T'internet, I mean, who hasn't seen The Opera House, NYC Skyline, the Monaco hairpin and Christ the Redeemer?  Of course, seeing these iconic places in the flesh is far more visceral than looking at them on a screen, or back from the black-and-white-non-internet-days, seeing them on a postcard.  (Not that my mum & dad knew anyone who'd been to any of the places mentioned!)

Nirvana 
Back to my contented-excited-bewildered sun lounger, I would sup a couple of cocktails then went for the local "caipirinha".  Little known fact outside of Brazil, they have their own "whisky", a distilled alcohol named cachaca made from fermented sugar cane.  I've since gone onto find that much like whisky, you get good stuff and not so good stuff.  A capipirinha consists of few ingredients, just cachaca, sugar, fresh limes (mushed) and ice.  One of those 'easy-to-drink' cocktails which sneaks up on you, chilling on the lounger in 30 degrees or so scoofing several was fine and dandy until it was time to go for the loo and my legs wanted to go in a different direction to the rest of me.  I recall staggering to the loo smirking to myself "man, I'm pished".....so when I got back I did the only logical thing to sober myself up and cannon-balled into the infinity pool.  Scattered bairns everywhere.....ahhh....caiphirinas.  Oh, turns out you can also get caipirinhas whilst in the pool, the rest of my day was sorted as I was getting baked by the sun and smashed with the cachaca on this random rooftop in Rio de Janeiro.  I genuinely considered, and still do to this day, life does not get any better than this and the rooftop of the Miramar remains one of my favourite places to be.

As the evening drew in I headed back to the room, freshened up and with a caipirinha filled bravado thought; "I''m going oot".  I was aware of the danger because it is reported so much but went down a
Am I pished or is that made oot of sand??
wandering along Copacabana.  Had a couple of beers and a bite to eat, had another couple of beers and staggered back to the hotel late-ish.  And guess what happened?  Nothing.  I had beer and food and walked home....end of story.  I have repeated this exercise now countless times, well, if I was to count I'd say well over 150 times and guess what - same result....nothing happened except a drunk peely-wally-Scotsman got more drunk until his home-radar pinged and he went up the road.....and not a single soul raped/mugged/kidnapped/murdered or even sexually assaulted him.  (Not for the lack of trying on the last one btw)  So, you can believe the bullshit you hear or take it from someone who isn't known for being the most compos-mentis with too much beer, the 2 million plus people who visit Rio annually mainly come home with zero bad experiences.  Of course, much like Rome, Barcelona or any tourist-driven-city, there are douchebags waiting to take advantage of the tourist, but Rio is no worse than many places I've been and in fact, probably safer than several cities I've been to.

Misguided 

During my many overseas Adventures, I have discovered two great ways to see the historical sights of cities I visit.  I don't normally have loads of time as I am normally only there for a few days pre/post Grand Prix.  One way (and I heartily recommend this to everyone) is to go on a guided Segway tour; what a hoot these things are and you actually traverse miles of the city in a short space of time.  The other option is to get a guide to take you around.  Rio had no Segways so I booked a tour with a charming fellow by the name of Madison.  He would take me around the world famous sights of Rio and explained, in detail, each of the attractions.

My photo from 2013 of the iconic statue 
Visit one, early in the morning was the icon which defines all of Brazil: Christ the Redeemer atop Corcovado Mountain.  Again, we've all seen the images of this on any and every TV show about Brazil but to be up-close with the breathtaking views was nothing short of spectacular.  A term which is bandied about willy-nilly "spectacular", but at the top of Corcovado, with Christ looking over the city and the 360 degree views is the very definition of the word.  It is an assault on your eyes and I was actually silent for most of my visit letting my eyes drink in this rich mixture of sea, sand, mountains and favelas all spread among the lush green of this remarkable place.  I'd felt rather at home on top of the Miramar Hotel the previous day, and now I was just in awe of such natural beauty.

Sugar Loaf cable cars 
We stayed there for some time and I managed to avoid buying the souvenir stuff which laces the top of the mountain, and we headed for lunch then to Sugar Loaf Mountain.  He had asked if I wanted to see other stuff but to be honest, I was nursing a raging hangover (cheap cachaca) so only wanted these two.  We'd get to the all glass cable cars and off we went.  Little known fact is that there are two mountains at Sugar Loaf, and a two stage cable car journey.  Stage 1 takes you from ground level to Urca mountain where you disembark and wander around looking at the views, the thieving monkeys (actual monkeys) and restaurants / bars and also, much to my excitement, a helicopter pad with sight-seeing helicopters taking off and landing.  Went to speak to the dudes running the show and was told to come back in half an hour or so, went up Sugar Loaf and again took in the scenery (looking back at Christ) and was again taken with the natural beauty of Rio.  To my mind, there are few places in the world which have such jaw-dropping and spectacular natural beauty.  I am sure many would argue for other places being more beautiful but, to me there is nowhere in the world offers that breathtaking scenery....and I still think the same now after countless returns to Brazil. Once we'd seen the sights from Sugar Loaf it was time for my (relatively cheap) helicopter ride over the beaches (Copacabana & Ipanema) as well as a buzz around Christ.  It remains as vivid a memory today 7-years-later, again I was fairly silent for most of the tour with occasional outbursts of "WOW!"

Back to Madison who whisked me back to the Miramar and I'd now well and truly burst my Rio cherry.  I'd done more in my 3-day stop off than I had imagined.  I went out for dinner that night somewhere along Copacabana, had a few more drinks and staggered back to my hotel at whatever-o-clock, managed once again to avoid any unsavory happenings.  Almost as soon as I'd arrived it was time to go and for only the 2nd time in my life, I was more disappointed to be leaving as I was excited to be going to a Formula One race.  In March of 2009, Dave had taken me around the sights of Sydney and we'd had a whale of a time, I felt exactly the same leaving Rio as I did in 09 - if it wasn't for the amount of money I'd spent on the F1 tickets, I would not have bothered going to the race, I'd have much rather stayed in Rio.  That being said, I knew (not thought, knew) that I would be back, no idea of when but more than likely at the 2014 Grand Prix.  But, the next time I would certainly spend more time in Rio...definitely.
I asked the cab driver to stop as I left the hotel at stupid-early-o-clock for my flight out to capture this sunrise 
So, what's the message?

All my own photos too (except Ronnie & F1)
Obrigado and Saudé.
There are 2 other parts coming to this blog, one for F1 and one for Carnival which some will take as a must.  I have been to Rio de Janeiro a number of times and made some great friends out there, it is beautiful, it is safe, the food and drinks are wonderful and what makes Rio Rio is that when you are there you feel liberated, you feel a freedom you simply do not get anywhere else.  A lot of this is because of the people who live there, big-hearted friendly people.  You come to learn that the Favela's are not as dangerous as they'd have you believe, they are inhabited in the main by the chamber-maids who freshen your room each day, the guy serving you the caipirinha or from the waiter bringing you a humongous steak.  Sure, they are not for 'outsiders' in much the same way you'd not take a tour bus to a housing estate in Scotland and expect to come out the other end unscathed.  I've learned that Carioca people live for the beach, Sunday's on Copacabana & Ipanema is crazy with almost every inch of that beautiful white sand inhabited by families all enjoying their sun on their Sunday.  The people of Rio live for Samba, and I mean they LIVE for it, more of that later.  When the footy is on they all go nuts when Flamengo play and when they win, the city parties into the wee small hours.  It is, for me, easily the most wonderful place and 99% the people aren't there to make your stay dangerous, they are there to show you what they are rightly proud of, their beautiful, friendly and fun city surrounded by the most scenic beauty you'll get anywhere.  I've since been to several places in South America; Asuncion & Cuidad del Este in Paraguay, Buenos Aries in Argentina, Sao Paulo & Foz in Brazil and none of them come close to the vibe you get in Rio, it is truly unique.  Some of you might think this nothing more than an elaborate sales pitch now that I am running a tour company offering tours to Rio for Carnival and New Year, so here's my honest message:  Forget what I do for a living and book with another agency if you must, however, book a holiday to Rio de Janeiro you simply have to do at some point in your life, if you've ever had half an inkling of wanting to go to Rio de Janeiro, do yourself a big favour and make it so and I have no doubt, none, that you'll come back and be as enthusiastic as me about the place, the people and that stunning beauty.


Saturday, 4 January 2020

Adventures and ventures in travel part III

Ellis at the Galleria in 01 resplendent in her Ferrari t-shirt 

The holiday to Nice in 2001 was fab, really enjoyed it.  And even the drive to Maranello on France & Italy’s swooping motorways was a real adventure.  I’d saw the home of Ferrari something I’d wanted to do since Nigel drove for them in 1989/90.  I knew beforehand about Ferrari, of course I did, who doesn’t right? But I’d not researched much about the F1 team until it was announced my hero was on the way to the team, so I bought a book about Enzo and learned about the race on Sunday sell on Monday ex-Alfa mechanic who set up this remarkable empire of Italian sexiness.  The whole town of Maranello in Italy is all about Ferrari, as you’d expect and the Galleria / Museum houses some of the most spectacular F1 and road cars. 



As mentioned previously, because I was a superstar salesman at the time, I did not feel the need to book a hotel. I recall my then wife being quite stressed about it but I was like “nae bathir”.  The drive back from Italy to Monaco was around 4 hours and as each hour passed, so my excitement for what was awaiting me increased.  I was going to MONACO! Not just going, I was going to stay in a hotel IN MONACO. Even as we approached the little principality, and the road signs read “Monaco 70km” I was like “oooohhhh”.  You approach Monaco from up high, the highway literally being a high-way to Monaco and then some tunnels, and all of a sudden the actual city-sign for Monaco was there.  I was there.  Me.  In Monaco; and there on merit.  I cannot remember how I found it, but I ended up on the track and before I did anything else, I was driving that track! Sure enough I enter at what is Anthony Nouges, the final corner and along the ‘straight’ in Monaco which isn’t a straight.  And I am off…in my diesel 5 series….I am not a nervous person, not at all.  Driving test…no problemo, wedding day…. No problemo, the million or so interviews I’d been on…no poblemo.  The only time I can vividly recall being nervous was November 18th 1996 when Ellis couldnae wait to join the McLeod fold and that day in 2001 when I was on the track.  It is entirely illogical to a non-F1 fan but to me I was driving the Monte Carlo race track, something so iconic to and something quite honestly that should have been completely out-with my reaches.  I turned right at Ste Devote and climbed the steep hill to Massanet, traffic was as it always is in Monaco, shit but I didn’t care, I was on the Monaco F1 circuit. .  Then around to Casino Sq and to my eternal annoyance, the little  straight in front of the Hotel de Paris is closed for those rich knobs who stay there and their fancy cars.  So, I round the corner at CafĂ© de Paris and down the steep hill to Mirabeau.  Then, then there it is.  Perhaps the most famous corner in all F1, The Lowes Hairpin. 
Around I go and then take the next right and WHAM – the tunnel! I am in the Monaco tunnel……but hang on, this is totally different to the telly, whilst I know the telly flattens out the undulation, this tunnel is weird.  And then as my wee legs shook like a half-set jelly at the prospect my annoyance turned to frustration as I realised I’d taken the wrong effing tunnel.  Little known fact if you’ve not been to Monaco, there’s a tunnel before THE tunnel but in my wide-eyed-almost-peeing-my-pants-with-excitement, I’d bolloxed it up.  I recall swearing a lot and my wife looking at me all confused as to why I was so frustrated, she didn’t get F1…so the whole thing was lost on her.  Ellis sat in the back just looking out the window at this new place wondering why her old man had lost his shit….funny looking back.  I then entered realms unknown as I tried again to make my way around the circuit and found myself back at the start-finish-not-straight and repeated lap 2…but this time I made the right tunnel.  This was honestly Nirvana for me, I could have died at the end of that lap a happy man, probably my
Mirabeau Hotel which is no longer a hotel
ultimate ambition at the time fulfilled, and still to this day I cannot fully relay the joy and excitement I felt driving around in Monaco traffic.  Once lap 3 started it was time for a hotel and for reasons I forget I chose Mirabeau.  The negotiation was really short with the check-in agent.  She gave me the price  for 3 nights. Using all the skills I had been trained in, like a Ninja sales warrior I went into battle with her, telling her how lucky she was that I was choosing their hotel over any other, that I was staying for a whole 3 nights and a load of other dynamic reasons she should give me a better rate.  So, I paid the price she wanted and checked in….she honestly could not have cared less about my negotiation, it was “please sir, this is the rate, feel free to take it or you are welcome to not let the door wallop you in the arse on the way out”.  I am paraphrasing, but in essence that was that.  Another voodoo-esq sign of things to come, me Kenny McLeod negotiating with hotels in Monaco…. I did become a little more successful at it.

The following day I would walk the track with the wife n bairn stopping every 20 – 30 feet to take photos of one corner or landmark or corner! I loved it….I still do.  I make a point every year of walking a lap, as I have gotten older and wider, unlike the F1 cars my lap times are a lot worse now than they were in 2001.  I’d also go to find David Coulthard’s hotel in Monaco, The Columbus.  DC was with McLaren at the time and riding a crest, the car was competitive and he’d frequently be in the hunt with Schumacher and Hakkinen.  I love his hotel, very chic and has a terrific feel to it.  I remarked earlier about places
GPA & DJP & DC & KMc at the Columbus 
which have a ‘feel’.  Places I’ve been which have it; London, New York, Sydney, Rio de Janeiro and Monaco.  And DC’s hotel IN Monaco is quite a unique feel for me, I am a fan of his, I am in what is my favourite ever place and to top it all, the hotel is really cool! Columbus in Monaco would feature a lot later in my journey but for now I am marveling at being in Monaco.  With an extremely heavy heart we left to come home, and you know what my abiding memory was? How in the name of F do the cars race around these streets?  They are so narrow, in particular the little straight from Casino to Mirabeau, and I can hardly fathom that the place I’ve just seen in the flesh is the same one these fastest cars in the world compete around.

The original Monac03 Adventurers 
Upon returning I would regale my cyber-pals on the Formula1.com website about my visit to Maranello and Monaco.  They got it.  No one else in my social circle got it but these people on T’internet, they got it and fully understood my joy and fervour.  The chat around the thread was all about the track, the hotels, DC’s gaff, Maranello almost became a bit-part to the story such was the reaction to one of the group of my going to Monaco. And then, kinda out of nowhere I posted this life-changing post.  “So, guys I hope you all enjoyed my tales from Monaco, I’ve decided that in 2003 I am going to the Grand Prix, I have to see these cars in the flesh. I have chosen 2003 to give me and anyone who wants to join me ample time to save, let me know if you fancy joining me and I’ll crack on with booking it all.”  I didn’t expect as many people to respond as did, but in no particular order the original Monac03 crew consisted of; A couple from Canada, a couple from Florida, a dude from Memphis, a dude from England, a chap from Sydney, a guy from Paraguay and an ex-policeman from his own arse. (17 years later I still judge him as the worst customer I’ve ever had!)  The tour I booked, I have to say I was rather proud of!  Hire cars, karting in Nice, Maranello visit, hospitality at Monaco, Monza visit, transport from Nice to Monaco the whole thing start to finish was 10 days.  Much to my annoyance, one of the group had to withdraw from the booking, I know him as a great pal now and have come to realise that this is a regular occurrence for him. (If you are reading this you Paraguayan douchebag, you know who you are!) (Peru at Xmas my arse!)  So in January I called the company I had booked the
Mr Unreliable
hospitality with and asked them if they would refund one of the tickets….we’d bought 10 of them at around £1000 each but they dug their heels in and wouldn’t take it back.  I was really peeved with them, but they did me one of the biggest favours anyone has ever done, they were in business until recently but went pop with the demise of Thomas Cook.

I’d need more time to explain to you how much fun we all had in Nice, Monaco, Maranello and Monza in 2003 but suffice it to say I made some great pals many of whom I see regularly to this day, and but for the arse-cop I consider the original Monaco crew great pals.  We’d come back to Nice and dump the hire cars now opting for public transport (the train) to / from Monaco. I suggested getting the train to Monaco to a) walk the
The man who changed my life 
track before it was closed to become that iconic circuit and b) to find our balcony.  We had been sent tickets from the useless vendor but no directions or instructions.  Nothing.  So we went to Monaco all but my Floridian pals who had their bag nicked at the train station.  They had to go to  Marseilles to get new passports and as organiser I kinda felt responsible to go with them, but they managed just fine themselves and told me to just go with the original plan of heading to Monaco. Thank Christ they did, for it was this very day I’d meet the most influential man in my life since my dear old Hogmanay loving father – a charming and charismatic Parisian chap by the name of Joel Lepage.

Whilst in Monaco we found the building that we were to watch from by scrutinising the thumbnail photograph I’d printed off from the website.  Turns out we were in Panorama building which sits right on Ste Devote corner (turn 1).  We were a group of 6, so me being chief organiser says, “I’ll go up and have a nosey at the balcony see what the view is like, if they let me I’ll ask if you lot can join me”.  So, up to floor 7 I would go and as I exited the elevator I made what would be the biggest mistake of my life.  I turned right….no idea why.  To let you understand when the elevator doors open you can go only left or right, facing you is the corridor wall, I have no idea to this day why I turned right and not left, but this would be the rightest right that I am writing about!  I buzzed the door and a small, reasonably elderly lady half-cracked the door.  I did my “Bonjour, parlez vous Anglais” thing (thereby ending my extensive French vocabulary)  and she shuffled off gesturing with her hand a “wait” motion.  Then this English speaking, mid-50’s, perma-tanned, casual but well dressed fella came to the door. “Can I help you”?  “Ah, yes, I am sorry to trouble you as I know you will be working but we are here at the weekend with Airtrack for the Grand Prix, I was hoping to have a look at the terrace if that is ok with you”?  He could not have been more accommodating, shake of the hand welcomed me into his offices (he was / is a commodity trader, loads of computer screens showing all sorts of stuff I’d never understand in a month of Sunday’s) and then open the door to the outside terrace.  And I was stood there, breezy but sunny on this huge long / wide terrace looking into the Monaco harbour and directly about Ste Devote.  It was, not to put too fine a point on it, spectacular.  You know that word “breathtaking”.  Well – that.  And this chap, Joel, well he’s talking to me like we’re old friends asking me about F1
The Panorama Balcony (with GPA guests on it)
and was this my 1st time in Monaco etc; I ask him if my friends can come up and he enthusiastically agrees.  I can scarcely believe my luck, I’ve chosen not only a spectacular view but the guy is a proper gent too, what are the odds of that?  Anyway, the rest of the Monac03 gang join me on the balcony and sure enough, like me, they are blown away with it.  Joel goes and gets us all coffee and water and we’re shooting the breeze on his breezy terrace as he explains to me that he is really pissed off with Airtrack.  Oh……..my furtive imagination spots a wee shard of light…..I explain that I too am pissed off with Airtrack.  And you know, I have had personal experience of nothing uniting like a common enemy, and here’s Joel and me in essence, bitching like a couple of old fishwives about these wankers we were dealing with.  Joel tells me that he will NEVER deal with them again and takes me to show me a torn up carpet where the catering company had dragged a fridge in.  Turns out, he had a caterer he wanted to use and Airtrack agreed, then un-agreed with 4 weeks to go to GP instead bringing in a caterer of their own.  The caterer Joel used was a family friend, she’d catered his 3 weddings, his kids christenings, his grand-kids christenings, New Year parties etc and one thing I know now, and I know it from bitter personal experience, you never ever recover from insulting a French person’s honour.  He was very insulted….so…..I enquired quite off the cuff (remember the brass neck thing) about how much he charged.  He tells me and I divide the number by 60 (the amount of people this particular terrace caters for) and immediately think of the fortune I could make just renting this terrace on its own.  We leave the balcony later in the day and walk the track, and I would not stop slavering on about how I could see a great opportunity to do this as a wee sideline.  “Like, even if all I do is pay for me to get a free trip to Monaco every year, that would be awesome”.

So, how was this the biggest mistake I’ve ever made?  On Saturday we go to the Panorama Building
Panorama building in Monaco 
and I promptly head to 7D, the Airtrack staff are now in situ and look at my pass to tell me I am in the wrong apartment, in fact I should be opposite  in 7C.  “Arfur Fooksakes”, cannae believe how unlucky I am, but the others come to tell me the view is just as good next door whilst I argue with the staff.  I go through to 7C and sure enough, it is fine but I am a little peeved at not being able to further my chat with the charming Joel.  Not to worry, around lunchtime I am tapped on the shoulder and here is a puzzled looking Monsieur Lepage.  “Why are you in here?” he enquires to whit I explain I’d made a wrong turn out the elevator.  “Ahh, I see”, he grabs a coffee and we begin chatting again about F1, Monaco and bitching once more about the ineptness of the company we were both dealing with, him as a vendor and me as a customer and I uttered these immortal words; “Joel, can I ask, if I was to come back and see you once this madness is all over, would you rent your balcony to me”?  Now, nae due-diligence, no further questioning of me, no asking about my travel experience, no hesitation at all, he says; “Kenny, I like you, you’re a good guy, you pay me the deposit before Christmas (this is MAY!) and you can have my balcony – BUT you have to use Madame Baptiste to cater, if you agree, lets meet again later in the year and we make it happen”.  Then, a somewhat surreal exchange as I ask him for a business card, I am expecting a very thick, gold-leafed and elaborate card – nope, he scribbles his number down on a napkin.  We chatted a little longer but to be honest I was dying for him to leave so I could tell (show off) the others that using my sheer skill and wherewithal I had scored my own balcony in MONACO !  He popped off back to his office explaining to me that he’d not see me Sunday as he had friends over to his apartment for the race. (Little did I know his apartment was in the same building and had an even bigger terrace!)  I am now bouncing all over the place like Tigger on a cocktail of Red Bull, double espresso's and a O/D of Kamagra & Viagra, elated at being in Monaco, amazed that the F1 qualifying is about to begin and that me, Kenneth McLeod, has somehow or another blagged his way into Monaco and made a new pal – in Monaco.  Me? Me! HA! You know, even now I scarcely believe it.

Great pals from the Monac03 group (me with my DC cap on)
The rest of the trip to Monaco was a hoot, one of those “had to be there” experiences.  Even without the great fortune of making the wrong/right right turn this trip would still have been one of the best of my life, amazing people, amazing place and laugh from start to finish.  It would also mark the cementing of my friendship with Dave, we’d met before but this trip we really made the best of pals.  The amount of obstacles that should have prevented me from initially meeting Monsieur Lepage are incalculable, but meet him I did and as promised, I returned to see him in July.  We agreed a payment schedule and I gave him every penny of personal savings I had to deposit.  I expected an elaborate contract, but Joel did deals on a handshake, proper old school.  Whilst there I visited hotels in Nice, hotels in Monaco and researched the whole package aspect inside out.  I wanted to be the polar opposite of Airtrack, we’d pick you up at airport, we’d put you in a hotel I had personally vetted (the hotel our group had in Nice was awful, but made it more fun!), we’d run you into Monaco by luxury air-conditioned coaches, not the crammed trains, we’d physically direct you to the balcony (it is hugely complicated to find your way around Monaco during F1) we’d cater the balcony well, and we’d take you BACK to the airport.  Sounds really simple but honestly, in 2003/04 nobody did it this way.  No one.  I’d agreed rates and allocations with hotels (which turned out to be really difficult as all hotels in Monaco / Nice are sold out during the F1 – well, they were back then) I’d secured a balcony (one) and now all I needed was a website.  Oh….and a company.  So, January 15th 2004, at Companies House I registered Grand Prix Adventures.  Behind the scenes I had a marketing company build me a website, create a logo and I was all set to go.
The original GPA logo from 2004.
Copacabana 2020
I experienced the fireworks on Copacabana beach in Rio last night, saying goodbye to one decade and welcoming in another.  Amid the bangs, whistles and drinking frenzy I took a short pause to reflect on being where I was not long after I'd sent a wee Happy New Year message to the bairn, and it is absolutely not lost on me one iota just how incredible my travel journey has been.  Of course, a lot of the nostalgia I was feeling was part-alcohol-fueled but mainly driven by many of the memories this blog has brought to me, my intention whilst writing was not to be self-indulgent, nor to try and make it a "look at me" blog, I just wrote how I find myself where I am today, at 50-years-of-age, in Rio de Janeiro, looking out over Copacabana with a Bohemia beer to my left.  And it is surreal.  And for those who know this term as it is bandied around rather a lot, this is Dictionary.com's 2nd definition of the word; "having the disorienting, hallucinatory quality of a dream; unreal; fantastic:"  Indeed, that for me sums this whole blog up perfectly, since meeting that incredible Parisian in 2003, since getting the job at PAC in 1999 with the laptop, which was only possible by meeting Jimmy Cairnie, which only worked out because I wanted to be a rep from working in shops, which only really happened because that greasy-hippy from Monifieth wanted to hacksaw my head off which all bizarrely happened because I loved that flying thing, the speed - that came about because some dimwitted-lunatic from Montpelier in Whitfield thought skiing was a good idea,and how in the name of F was I able to ski from the off?  How does that even happen?  Then the really random stuff; why don't I like football?  Why did I find cars zooming around and around a track so fascinating, then many years later, finding (stumbling) my way into that chat room on F1.com then meeting the cyber-friends (all of whom I still consider great friends), Richie Herkes being the MD of PAC at the time and more-or-less inviting me to Nice, and most important of all - taking the wrong-right-turn in 2003, since all of these bizarre happenstances occurred, my life has become surreal.  

Mr Destiny
There is a movie I watched many many years ago, an 80's movie which is actually a load of tosh really, however, there is a scene in it which to this day I cannot shake out of my head.  I talked of it recently with "the one who got away"....(we've all got one, that for sure is another blog....actually would form a part of the DJP blog) (and yes, she knows who she is) and during a drunken text exchange to her, I asked her to seek out this movie.  It is called "Mr Destiny" starring James Belushi and Michael Cane.  The premise is that James Belushi fumbles an important catch during his High School American football match, and he has a mediocre life.  He meets Michael Cane (Mr Destiny) one night and Mr Destiny changes that one moment in his life which then leads to an entirely different outcome.  Similar to the whole Sliding Doors thing, but I've always had that scene in my head, the Mr Destiny scene about how one small, almost insignificant thing happening in your life can take you on an entirely different journey.  He does it by pointing out little stars which take him on one path, he changes one of the stars and sure enough, the direction changes.  Almost all of the above circumstances outlined above had to happen to get me to where I am now and to have many of the friends I have now.

I am incredibly grateful for the chances I've had, a lot of it down to hard work, but some of it to luck as well.  Anyone in business who tells you that luck doesn't play any part of their success isn't telling you the truth, is a fact.  Do not misunderstand, by no stretch of anyone's imagination is running a business easy, of course many people think it is, after all, how difficult can it be to book a bloody flight and a hotel?  Indeed....like any business the best ones really do look very simple but most of them perform that worn-old-cliched swan day-in-day out of padding furiously below the surface whilst maintaining a calm elegance up top.  Not that many would describe me as elegant of course, but I like to keep a fairly upbeat and positive outlook on my life and my business even though below the surface there might be a massive storm that I am struggling to weather.

I arrived home the other day from a most incredible time in Rio, my great pal picked me up from the airport and as we approached Dundee I asked him if he'd mind a quick stop off before I got home, he didn't mind at all and I was transported back to simpler times and wondered aloud about the difference in my journeys - one in the back of the Viva for 17 hours or one in the front of a plane for 17 hours - the net result was the same.

A whole one, all to myself!

Happy 2020 everyone and thanks for reading x